Hong Kong & the WTO Riots

We had a very interesting Saturday evening on the coattails of the WTO riots in Hong Kong. I arrived back into Hong Kong on Saturday morning from the US, and last night Tess & I went out to dinner with David & Ann. David is a lifelong friend - I've known him since I was nine years old in Toronto - and by coincidence we now both live in Hong Kong. Saturday was David's 50th birthday. The four of us dined at Petrus on the 60th floor of Shangri-La Hotel on Hong Kong Island.

Tess and I took a taxi from home, not knowing we were in for a long journey to the Shangri-La. I only slept a little on the flight back from the US. Therefore, after feeling drowsy in the taxi decided to doze off to re-charge the batteries. Next thing I knew, I felt the taxi slowing and opened my eyes.

“Are we on the road to the Airport Express,” I asked Tess and after she confirmed this to be true I asked, “Why is he going this way?”

“No choice,” replied Tess, “the highway was closed.” Highly irregular for a main artery through Central to be closed. Something must be going on we thought.

We were stuck in a nasty traffic jam so I tried to call David & Ann to warn them we’d be delayed. No answer, but no sooner had I disconnected the call when I received an incoming call from David’s work’s switchboard line.

“CHARLES!” David exclaimed, “We can’t get out of here. Taxis are dropping off guests at our place but not pickling anyone up. We are going to walk but it will take us about half an hour.” We agreed everyone should just relax and that the evening would be a long, luxurious one nonetheless.

All traffic going into Central was being re-routed back through the Airport Express and out of the city.  Basically, imagine all cars driving into the city doing a U-turn and leaving. Everywhere we looked, streets in Central were closed with police everywhere. Finally Tess & I decided to walk from the Airport Express to Pacific Place. This was no easy feat for Tess who was in high heels. Fortunately since we’d spoken to David & Ann we knew we didn’t have to rush too much.

“Needo, needo!” we said to the taxi driver who popped open the door to let us out. The atmosphere was just like it was the night of the handover in 1997… spookily quiet for Hong Kong. The first thing I noticed was the sound of a helicopter – not a little one, a mighty one, like a Blackhawk. Both Tess & I heard it, but could not see it. We started walking towards Wan Chai, chatting about the best route to the hotel. We decided to walk straight along the Queensway to Pacific Place, then up the four escalators.

The Queensway was closed both ways, with police everywhere. By this point we had not heard about the riots, instead concluding that senior dignitaries must be moving about thereby causing the road closures. Then, as we approached Pacific Place we saw the hovering helicopter positioned overtop Wan Chai. Even thought it appeared to be positioned above and between the Conrad and Shangri-La Hotels, in reality it was probably a little further east. A helicopter hovered there the entire night. Later we concluded this must have been a command post in the sky.

The Shangri-La Hotel is a pretty lah-tee-dah place, often hosting big-ticket names from politicians to Hollywood stars. Therefore, we were not entirely surprised at the security when we entered. Our bags were passed through an airport screening machine, and we had to walk through an airport metal detector, too. Tess noted that despite the tight security, the hotel staff was incredibly gracious, as they are about everything.

Fortunately we arrived before David & Ann, and were able to insure we had one of the best window seats in the restaurant. (Pre-arranged in honour of David.) We had a bird’s eye view of Admiralty and Wan Chai. The place looked like a ghost town with all streets – major through fares and small side streets – closed. There were police everywhere. Flashing blue lights – police boats – littered the harbour.

We had a fantastic evening with David & Ann, with the occasional background sound of powerful rotors manoeuvring a helicoptor into position.

Shortly after midnight the head maitre d’ asked us if we were staying in the hotel or elsewhere. Reason being he explained, “you will not be able to get a taxi and the MTR closes at 1 AM. I am not trying to rush you, I just want to make sure you don’t find yourselves without a way home.” We agreed it was time to retire. Upon leaving we walked to the MTR – about a fifteen minute walk – and headed West, away from Wan Chai. While on the MTR we heard announcements that the Wan Chai station was closed. Very bizarre.

Waking up this morning, however, it all made sense once we read the news. WTO protestors clashed with police. After ten years in Hong Kong I have a tremendous amount of respect for the police, and not a lot of sympathy for the protestors’ methods. If you come to Hong Kong looking for trouble, then stir it up, the police will deal with you accordingly.

Tess had a remarkable comment about the seventy Korean farmers who jumped into Hong Kong harbour in an attempt to approach the Hong Kong Convention Centre from the water… “You mean they didn’t dissolve?”

Comments

[Carmi]

Wow, what a vivid first-person account of the scene. I've never understood what motivates rioters. It's become so commonplace that the actual message and its underlying intent are inevitably lost in the chaos that ensues.

Meaningful protest is one thing. In high school, I remember occupying the street in front of the Soviet Consulate in Montreal to protest the oppressive regime.

But we didn't burn police cars, and we made sure our messages were peacefully delivered and intelligently relayed to the reporters who came to speak with us.

I hardly think starting a running battle would have helped articulate the message any better.

Maybe it's just me and my naivete.

[Mrs Aginoth]

An interesting post - I'm going to have to look up some background to the story now.

here from michele

[OldOldLady Of The Hills]

Here from Michele, this A.M. Charles..long time since I have been in touch with you...Good to visit you again, but this sounds VERY scary...I know these things sound worse sometimes when one is far away from the event...and it's not as bad there...BUT, it does not sound like this was one of those times...
I am completely unfamiliar with the 'problems' there so I wondered what the riots were actually about? Well....maybe I canfind some info on the Internet. Take good care Charles.

[margalit]

HI Charles. I hadn't heard that there were any WTO riots in Hong Kong. MOre applause for the American media...

Glad your evening worked out OK> It sounded quite challanging.

Michele sent me.